After looking back on past years projects this one is only a few blocks away from our shop in Bloomington, mn that really stuck out. The home owner had just installed a above ground pool for all the grandkids and has always wanted a paver patio to relax on and be able to watch the kids play.  As we arrived on a early Monday morning we grabbed the marking paint and started drawing all over the yard.  As for any project within minutes machines were busy and the whole back yard was dug up.  We had plenty of prep work making sure the ground was level for the paver patio and everything starting coming together..  Material showed up and the Paver patio install was under way, setting each brick paver and making sure each piece of natural flagstone was set at the same height.  From the beginning to the end pictures really shows how in a matter of a few days anyones dreams can come true.  

Once the last brick paver was set and polymeric sand was swept into the joints the paver patio was finished. Plants and mulch were added and the final touches were coming to a end.  Not only did she get her paver patio but it is fully landscaped and even has a natural stone pathway leading down to the shed to be able to get at the lawn mower.  We couldn’t be happier with how this small backyard retreat turned out.  This project stands out to us because it shows no matter how big or small of project, each job can have huge results.  

​We are approaching Spring here in Minnesota and like many things in life timing matters. If you want a healthy, vibrant green lawn year-round, it’s just as important to understand what it needs as well as to understand when it needs it. Weed killers, weed and feed and the timing of it all, however, can be mystifying to homeowners seeking answers.
Not to worry though, you’ve got a neighborhood lawn expert at your disposal! Urban Landworks located in Bloomington, MN, has the basics of weed killer best practices, timing recommendations and more. 

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What is weed and feed? Weed and feed is an interchangeable, universal name given to a wide variety of lawn chemicals that have the purpose of strengthening the lawn by killing weeds. It generally improves your lawn’s ability to absorb water and food and adds necessary nutrients which promote healthy growth.
A healthy lawn, in turn, discourages weed propagation, enabling the use of a reduced amount of the product over time. There are many types of weed and feed that we will drill down on for further learnings.
 
What is the “weed” in my weed and feed? The weed component is comprised of herbicides (typically Dicamba, 2, 4-D and/or MCPP). These chemicals are designed to squelch dandelions, dollarweed and the most common green leafy weeds.
 
What makes up the “feed” in my weed and feed? The “feed” is a fertilizer. Typically, it is a combo of nitrogen, phosphorous and/or potassium. The blends vary, but all are designed to help your lawn flourish.
 
How does weed and feed work? Granules are applied to and absorbed by the leaves of the weed but doesn’t kill regular grass (unless too much is applied). In addition to the granular form, liquid forms are available that can be applied with a sprayer.
 
What is pre-emergent weed and feed? Pre-emergent weed and feed, as the name implies, targets weeds before they appear. Pre-emergent weed and feed does not control existing weeds. Annual applications over the target area for best results. Water in your pre-emergent weed and feed to activate the herbicide and create a barrier against weeds before they grow.
 
What is post-emergent weed and feed? Post-emergent weed and feed is the most common form for ridding weeds from lawns. When you already have weeds, the post-emergent weed and feed varietal is in order. Using a mixture of chemicals, they kill the weed and keep it from growing back.
 
How do seasons impact my weed and feed strategy? To be effective with your weed and feed strategy, you need to get the timing right. As a rule of thumb, time the application of weed and feed with the fertilization of the lawn during the last week of March or early April.
Keeping weeds out of your lawn can often be a struggle that requires a strategy that is comprehensive and continuous. Understanding when to use pre-emergent weed and feed vs. post-emergent as well as getting the timing and ground temperature right can be the winning combination to help you reach the finish line.
Whether it’s weeds or routine maintenance  you’re in need of, Urban Landworks has the capability to handle it all.  We are locally owned and operated and take our commitment to our community seriously.

​The more time and effort put in to preparing the base for you patio correctly, the better your patio will perform and the longer it will last.  You will need to dig down 9 inches to account for the depth of your base materials and pavers.  There will be 6” depth layer of Class 5 gravel, 1” depth layer of washed sand, and 2.5” thick pavers. Make sure to account for drainage when excavating your base.  You want all rainwater to run away from your house or any existing structures.  To accomplish this, there should be at least a 1/8”-1/4” drop for every linear foot away from the house.

Once the area is excavated and rough graded, use a plate compactor to go over the entire area and make sure the ground is firm. If you choose to install geotextile fabric under your gravel, now is the time to lay it down.  When adding the Class 5 Gravel, spread a layer of the gravel 2 inches deep over the entire surface using your flat shovel a rake.  If the gravel is completely dry and dusty, lightly spray it with your garden hose to cut down the dust and make it easier to spread with the rake.  Go over the entire area with the plate compactor, making sure to overlap each pass by about 3 inches.  Spread another 2 inches of gravel, and repeat until all the gravel is installed.  Pull string lines over your base at the final surface elevation and slope of your patio.  There should be a 3 inch gap between the top of the gravel and the string line.  Check the base in this manner in at least 2 spots to make sure your gravel is level.
Place edge restraints along all open edges (edges not against a curb, house, or other paving).  Secure the edges in place with 10 inch timber spikes driven into the class 5 gravel every 2 feet at minimum.  Edging for areas that are curved can be installed after the pavers are laid, but before final compaction.
Only spread and screed the sand once you are ready to start laying pavers or stone.  Otherwise any rain will ruin the screeding, and the sand can become a bathroom for any neighborhood animals.  That does NOT make for a fun installation experience! You will need to install the sand as you go to prevent walking on and disturbing the level sand as you lay the pavers, so make sure to start in a 90° corner if you can. To install the sand, place the 1” diameter PVC pipes several feet apart and parallel to each other directly on the class 5 gravel.  Spread sand between the PVC pipes using your shovel and rake to loosely level it.  Place the 2x4 timber on top of the pipes, and pull it across the surface several times until the sand is perfectly smooth.  Remove the pipes, fill in the indentations with sand and level it with the trowel. 

Laying Paver Stones
Again, start in a corner if you are able.  Remove the string lines from checking your grade, and reposition them to be used to make sure your joint lines (the small gap between pavers) are straight. Set up the string lines about every 4’ or so to ensure your joints are straight across the entire patio. Work from right to left then left to right, one row of pavers at a time, installing any borders first.  Set the pavers lightly into the sand, do not press or hammer in.  Try not to walk or kneel on the pavers before they are vibrated in with the plate compactor to ensure they will not settle unevenly.  Make sure to check the straightness of your joints against the string line regularly.  Otherwise just keep screeding the bedding sand, laying the pavers, and maintaining consistent joint widths.  You will most likely need to make some cuts at some point.  Have no fear, the masonry cutting saw may seem intimidating, but is very safe and easy to use.  Place as many full sized pieces up to the edge as possible, then hold the piece that needs to be cut in place and mark the portion that needs to be cut off with a piece of chalk.  Make sure to put on your hearing and eye protection, and make your cuts.  Once all the pavers are in place it is time to do the final compaction.  Make sure not to scuff the surface of your pavers by placing cardboard, a carpet remnant, or a rubber mat between the compactor and the pavers. Adjust joints to be consistent as needed, and replace any pavers that may have cracked during compaction.  Now it is time to fill the joints. You can either use the same washed sand as you used for the bedding sand, or choose to use Polymeric Joint Sand.  Polymeric Sand has many advantages including inhibiting weed growth and ant hills in your paver joints.  Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when installing Polymeric Sand. 
Finishing Up and Aftercare
Bring in soil to backfill the area above your edging between your new patio and the existing lawn.  Keep the soil about ½” below the patio to make sure to allow rainwater runoff. You can either incorporate this area in to a new planting bed, or seed or sod new lawn. Depending on the look you’re going for, and the functions your patio will serve you may choose to seal your patio.  Urban Landworks offers many types of sealers from invisible, to color enhancing, to a glossy wet look.  Make sure to use a hardscape cleaner prior to sealing your patio to ensure any stains are gone, and that the sealer will make a good bond with the pavers. Aside from that, sit back, relax, and invite some friends over so you can show off your new outdoor look.